Overview
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ABSTRACT
This article deals with the specific ingredients found in treatment shampoos. The active ingredients adapted to different types of dandruff (dry dandruff or greasy dandruff), and to dry hair, greasy hair, unruly hair, stressed hair and hair harboring headlice, are explained in detail. The mechanism of action of each ingredient is covered, and relevant toxicological and regulatory aspects are addressed.
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Read the articleAUTHORS
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Céline COUTEAU: Senior Lecturer – HDR - LPiC – MMS EA 2160 – Faculty of Pharmacy, Nantes, France
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Laurence COIFFARD: Professor - LPiC – MMS EA 2160 – Faculty of Pharmacy, Nantes, France
INTRODUCTION
This article reviews the composition of treatment shampoos. Dandruff, oily hair, dry hair, hair loss - these are just some of the situations that call for the use of an appropriate shampoo. Shampoos are composed of a cleansing base made up of a mixture of water and surfactants. Depending on the problem encountered, certain active ingredients will naturally come to the fore.
In the case of dandruff (dry dandruff that detaches easily), various active ingredients are frequently found. Piroctone olamine, selenium disulfide and zinc pyrithione are the main active ingredients found in commercial products. It is important to be able to compare them both in terms of efficacy and safety. A number of active plant ingredients complete the formulas. Melaleuca essential oil, myrtle, red thyme and nasturtium extracts are traditionally used. It's important to know how they work, and to assess their suitability for use.
In the case of oily dandruff (dandruff adhering to the scalp), keratolytic agents are recommended. Salicylic acid, sulfur and tars are raw materials that are not always harmless. A few reminders of regulatory points are in order here.
For oily hair, a number of solutions are available: reduce excessive seborrhea (this is the case, for example, with white nettle extract) or absorb excess sebum with clay.
Vegetable butters and oils are essential in the treatment of dry hair.
The most emblematic ingredients in the field of hair care are examined in depth. From unruly and/or stressed hair to hair with a tendency to fall out, cosmetic and medicinal solutions are presented. The benefit-risk balance is taken into account when discussing the subject of hair loss. Finally, it's impossible to talk about shampoos without mentioning the problem of lice. This recurring problem, which occurs at regular intervals in children's communities, now has effective solutions.
As is customary in the industry, unless otherwise specified, the percentages given are by mass, and the ingredients are listed in descending order of content and under their INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient) names.
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KEYWORDS
active ingredients | dandruff | lices | regulatory status
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