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Article | REF: J2300 V1

Whitening cosmetic ingredients. Origin, efficiency and risks

Authors: Xavier FERNANDEZ, Thomas MICHEL, Stéphane AZOULAY

Publication date: June 10, 2015

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ABSTRACT

Depigmenting or skin-whitening cosmetic agents are now common, and are widely used for skin lightening. Among them, hydroquinone, corticosteroids and mercurial derivatives are the most widely used in the world. However, recent studies have highlighted adverse effects of these active compounds on human health, for instance skin problems, facial lesions or renal failure. The purpose of this article is to give an overview on regulations concerning depigmenting compounds in connection with their toxic effects, introduce the different methods for the determination of whitening activity, and report on the main synthetic and natural molecules used as skin-lightening in cosmetic formulations. Finally, structure-activity relationships of botanical ingredients will be discussed.

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AUTHORS

  • Xavier FERNANDEZ: Doctor of Science, HDR - University Professor, Institut de Chimie de Nice, Université Nice-Sophia Antipolis - Director of the Master 2 in Chemistry, Formulation, Analysis and Quality (FOQUAL)

  • Thomas MICHEL: Doctor of Science - Senior Lecturer, Université Nice-Sophia Antipolis - Nice Institute of Chemistry, University of Nice-Sophia Antipolis

  • Stéphane AZOULAY: Doctor of Science - Senior Lecturer, Université Nice-Sophia Antipolis - Director of the Chemistry Department, Université Nice-Sophia Antipolis - Nice Institute of Chemistry, University of Nice-Sophia Antipolis

 INTRODUCTION

Depigmenting or whitening cosmetics are attracting growing interest in cosmetology. The active ingredients used are natural or synthetic chemical substances with the ability to act at different levels of melanogenesis. They are used to combat hyperpigmentation, abnormal skin colorations or to obtain a lighter skin tone. In therapeutic application, depigmenting agents can be used to treat a number of pathologies, such as different types of hypermelanosis or different forms of lentigo. However, recent studies have demonstrated the harmful effects of certain active ingredients (hydroquinone, corticoids, mercurial derivatives) on human health, with, for example, the development of skin complications or facial lesions, leading to the definitive withdrawal of certain active ingredients from the market. Against this backdrop, European cosmetics regulations prohibit or restrict the use of certain molecules that may induce undesirable side effects.

This article highlights the regulations governing depigmenting active ingredients, the main mechanisms involved in melanin synthesis, the different methods for determining whitening activity and the dangers associated with depigmentation. A second section summarizes the main active ingredients of synthetic and natural origin currently used in cosmetic formulations. Finally, the activity of natural ingredients is compared with the structure of the active molecules.

As is customary in the profession, the concentrations specified in the text are mass concentrations unless otherwise indicated.

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KEYWORDS

tyrosinase   |   natural product   |   depigmenting   |   extraction   |   chromatography

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