Overview
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ABSTRACT
Blue light or high energy visible light (HEV) corresponds to short wavelengths (380-500 nm) naturally emitted by the sun, as well as by artificial light sources (electronic devices) ubiquitous in our environment. À chronic exposition to HEV disturbs the circadian rhythm and causes cutaneous harms by favoring the oxidative stress. Aware of these effects, cosmetics manufacturers increasingly propose anti-HEV cosmetics. After a focus on the cutaneous HEV impacts, an overview of the techniques employed to assess the efficacy of anti-HEV actives is presented. A synthesis of the main anti-HEV actives, and some commercialized formulations currently available on the market is produced.
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Read the articleAUTHORS
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Pauline BURGER: Doctor of Science - R&D Project Manager, NissActive, Espace Jacques-Louis Lions, 4 Traverse Dupont, 06130 Grasse
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Hortense PLAINFOSSE: Doctor of Science - Nice Chemistry Institute, Université Côte d'Azur - UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, 28 avenue Valrose, 06108 Nice Cedex 2 - Scientific Director, NissActive, Espace Jacques-Louis Lions, 4 Traverse Dupont, 06130 Grasse
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Xavier FERNANDEZ: Doctor of Science, HDR - University Professor, Université Côte d'Azur - Director, Master 2 in Chemistry, Formulation, Analysis and Quality (FOQUAL) - Nice Chemistry Institute, Université Côte d'Azur - UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, 28 avenue Valrose, 06108 Nice Cedex 2
INTRODUCTION
Blue light corresponds to the short wavelengths of the spectrum, between 380 and 500 nm, from violet to indigo to blue. Also known as HEV (High Energy Visible), it's part of the visible spectrum, which accounts for 55% of the light reaching the earth's surface, and is also widely emitted by many artificial light sources (LEDs, but also TVs, tablets, smartphones, computers, etc.).
Daily exposure to blue light, particularly from artificial sources, is one of the main factors responsible for premature skin aging, along with the sun and pollution. These wavelengths emitted by our screens penetrate deep into the dermis, gradually reducing the skin cells' ability to regenerate.
Although the link between blue light and premature skin aging has yet to be fully elucidated, as a preventive measure, a growing number of natural or synthetic active ingredients purporting to protect the skin from the deleterious effects of excess of these wavelengths have been developed since 2014. While in 2016, only a dozen or so cosmetic products claimed anti-blue-light activity out of the year's nearly 40,000 commercial launches, this figure has been growing ever since. This article begins with an overview of the cutaneous effects of blue light. Next, the scientific methods used to validate the efficacy of anti-blue-light active ingredients are outlined, before presenting a number of natural and synthetic active ingredients, as well as some of the formulations available on the market.
A glossary at the end of the article lists definitions that are important or useful for understanding the text.
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KEYWORDS
skin | blue light | electronic devices | oxidative stress
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Anti-blue-light cosmetic actives
Bibliography
- (1) - 8 solutions pour se protéger de la lumière bleue nocive des écrans | Bollé Safety. - https://www.bolle-safety.fr .
- (2) - LIU (Q.), WANG (Q.), DENG (W.) et al - Molecular basis for...
Websites
Bioalternatives – CRO specialized in cellular and molecular pharmacology, offering a range of solutions dedicated to preclinical research and the development of drug candidates, active ingredients and cosmetic formulations.
https://www.bioalternatives.com
BIONOS Testing Efficacy – research laboratory offering in vitro,...
Events
Beyond Beauty Events – International trade fairs for beauty and wellness suppliers and brands
http://www.beyondbeautyevents.com
Beauty and Packaging Conference – Perfume and cosmetics packaging
...
Standards and norms
- Cosmetics — Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). - ISO 22716 - 2007
- Détermination in vitro de la photoprotection UVA. - ISO 24443 - 2012
Regulations
Council Directive 76/768/EEC of July 27, 1976 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products (Cosmetics Directive).
Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 16/12/08 on classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures, amending and repealing Directives 67/548/EEC and 1999/45/EC, and amending Regulation (EC)...
Patents
BAE (E.K.). – Manufacturing method of emulsion containing titanium dioxide for blue light interception and cosmetic composition for protecting containing thereof. KR20190083832 (A).
CANDAU (D.), DURANTON (A.), PRUCHE (F.) and RICHARD (H.). – Use of at least one blue-light screening agent to preserve the amount of endogenous carotenoids in the skin, new blue-light screening agents, cosmetic compositions....
Directory
Suppliers of cosmetic active ingredients (non-exhaustive list)
AGRANA
ALBAN MULLER
ASHLAND SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
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