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Article | REF: J3008 V1

Anti-blue light active ingredients

Authors: Pauline BURGER, Hortense PLAINFOSSE, Xavier FERNANDEZ

Publication date: January 10, 2020

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Overview

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ABSTRACT

Blue light or high energy visible light (HEV) corresponds to short wavelengths (380-500 nm) naturally emitted by the sun, as well as by artificial light sources (electronic devices) ubiquitous in our environment. À chronic exposition to HEV disturbs the circadian rhythm and causes cutaneous harms by favoring the oxidative stress. Aware of these effects, cosmetics manufacturers increasingly propose anti-HEV cosmetics. After a focus on the cutaneous HEV impacts, an overview of the techniques employed to assess the efficacy of anti-HEV actives is presented. A synthesis of the main anti-HEV actives, and some commercialized formulations currently available on the market is produced.

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AUTHORS

  • Pauline BURGER: Doctor of Science - R&D Project Manager, NissActive, Espace Jacques-Louis Lions, 4 Traverse Dupont, 06130 Grasse

  • Hortense PLAINFOSSE: Doctor of Science - Nice Chemistry Institute, Université Côte d'Azur - UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, 28 avenue Valrose, 06108 Nice Cedex 2 - Scientific Director, NissActive, Espace Jacques-Louis Lions, 4 Traverse Dupont, 06130 Grasse

  • Xavier FERNANDEZ: Doctor of Science, HDR - University Professor, Université Côte d'Azur - Director, Master 2 in Chemistry, Formulation, Analysis and Quality (FOQUAL) - Nice Chemistry Institute, Université Côte d'Azur - UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, 28 avenue Valrose, 06108 Nice Cedex 2

 INTRODUCTION

Blue light corresponds to the short wavelengths of the spectrum, between 380 and 500 nm, from violet to indigo to blue. Also known as HEV (High Energy Visible), it's part of the visible spectrum, which accounts for 55% of the light reaching the earth's surface, and is also widely emitted by many artificial light sources (LEDs, but also TVs, tablets, smartphones, computers, etc.).

Daily exposure to blue light, particularly from artificial sources, is one of the main factors responsible for premature skin aging, along with the sun and pollution. These wavelengths emitted by our screens penetrate deep into the dermis, gradually reducing the skin cells' ability to regenerate.

Although the link between blue light and premature skin aging has yet to be fully elucidated, as a preventive measure, a growing number of natural or synthetic active ingredients purporting to protect the skin from the deleterious effects of excess of these wavelengths have been developed since 2014. While in 2016, only a dozen or so cosmetic products claimed anti-blue-light activity out of the year's nearly 40,000 commercial launches, this figure has been growing ever since. This article begins with an overview of the cutaneous effects of blue light. Next, the scientific methods used to validate the efficacy of anti-blue-light active ingredients are outlined, before presenting a number of natural and synthetic active ingredients, as well as some of the formulations available on the market.

A glossary at the end of the article lists definitions that are important or useful for understanding the text.

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KEYWORDS

skin   |   blue light   |   electronic devices   |   oxidative stress

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