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Article | REF: RE221 V1

Reconstitution of ancient perfumes

Authors: Xavier FERNANDEZ, Claire LEVASSEUR

Publication date: November 10, 2013

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Overview

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ABSTRACT

In ancient times, perfume played an essential role in religious life, funerals and secular life, for seduction as well as therapeutic virtues. Ancient perfumes were very different from that of modern perfumes (alcoholic perfumery). They were obtained via the extraction of odorous raw materials (perfume plants, flowers, roots, resin gums, spices, etc.) by vegetable oils (ben, sesame, horseradish, almond, olive). Several studies deal with the composition of perfumes in ancient times. Recently, on the sites of Delos (Greece), Paestum, Herculaneum and Pompeii (Italy), chemists and archaeologists have studied the raw materials and methods which were used as well as the chemical composition of these fragrances and their olfactory characteristics.

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AUTHORS

  • Xavier FERNANDEZ: Doctor of Science, HDR - University Professor, Nice-Sophia Antipolis University - Director, Master 2 in Chemistry, Formulation, Analysis and Quality (FOQUAL) - Flavors, Fragrances, Synthesis and Modeling Team, Nice-Sophia Antipolis University - Institut de Chimie de Nice, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose

  • Claire LEVASSEUR: Master's degree in Formulation, Analysis and Quality (University of Nice), CNRS research engineer - Flavors, Fragrances, Synthesis and Modeling Team, Nice-Sophia Antipolis University - Institut de Chimie de Nice, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose

 INTRODUCTION

Key points

Field: Formulation engineering, perfumery

Degree of technology diffusion: Emergence | Growth | Maturity

Technologies involved: formulation, sensory analysis, analytical chemistry (extraction, gas chromatography, gas chromatography/mass spectrometry)

Applications: Cosmetics

Main French players :

Competitive clusters: Pôle de compétitivité Parfums Arômes Senteurs Saveurs (PASS)

Centers of expertise: Centre national de la recherche scientifique (CNRS)

Nice Sophia Antipolis University (UNS)

Institut de Chimie Nice (ICN)

Master of Formulation, Quality and Analysis (FOQUAL)

Manufacturers: Albert Vieille, aromatic raw materials

Mas de Tourelles

Perfum.com

Payan Bertrand

Irisconsulting

Other players worldwide :

Contact: [email protected]

Table of acronyms

ESI-MS

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