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ABSTRACT
In ancient times, perfume played an essential role in religious life, funerals and secular life, for seduction as well as therapeutic virtues. Ancient perfumes were very different from that of modern perfumes (alcoholic perfumery). They were obtained via the extraction of odorous raw materials (perfume plants, flowers, roots, resin gums, spices, etc.) by vegetable oils (ben, sesame, horseradish, almond, olive). Several studies deal with the composition of perfumes in ancient times. Recently, on the sites of Delos (Greece), Paestum, Herculaneum and Pompeii (Italy), chemists and archaeologists have studied the raw materials and methods which were used as well as the chemical composition of these fragrances and their olfactory characteristics.
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Read the articleAUTHORS
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Xavier FERNANDEZ: Doctor of Science, HDR - University Professor, Nice-Sophia Antipolis University - Director, Master 2 in Chemistry, Formulation, Analysis and Quality (FOQUAL) - Flavors, Fragrances, Synthesis and Modeling Team, Nice-Sophia Antipolis University - Institut de Chimie de Nice, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose
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Claire LEVASSEUR: Master's degree in Formulation, Analysis and Quality (University of Nice), CNRS research engineer - Flavors, Fragrances, Synthesis and Modeling Team, Nice-Sophia Antipolis University - Institut de Chimie de Nice, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose
INTRODUCTION
Field: Formulation engineering, perfumery
Degree of technology diffusion: Emergence | Growth | Maturity
Technologies involved: formulation, sensory analysis, analytical chemistry (extraction, gas chromatography, gas chromatography/mass spectrometry)
Applications: Cosmetics
Main French players :
Competitive clusters: Pôle de compétitivité Parfums Arômes Senteurs Saveurs (PASS)
Centers of expertise: Centre national de la recherche scientifique (CNRS)
Nice Sophia Antipolis University (UNS)
Institut de Chimie Nice (ICN)
Master of Formulation, Quality and Analysis (FOQUAL)
Manufacturers: Albert Vieille, aromatic raw materials
Mas de Tourelles
Perfum.com
Payan Bertrand
Irisconsulting
Other players worldwide :
Contact: [email protected]
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Reconstitution of ancient perfumes
Context
Bibliography
Website
CNRS Image – Film Le parfum retrouvé https://images.cnrs.fr/video/2855 (page consulted on November 5, 2012)
Musée Royal de Mariemont http://www.musee-mariemont.be/ (page consulted on November 5, 2012)
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Regulations
Council Directive 76/768/EEC of 27 July 1976 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products (Cosmetics Directive)
Directory
Suppliers
ALBAN MÜLLER http://www.albanmuller.com/ (page consulted on November 5, 2012)
ALBERT VIEILLE http://www.albertvieille.com/ (page consulted on November 5, 2012)
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