Overview
ABSTRACT
Hydrosols and hydrolates are natural extracts increasingly used by several industries (cosmetics, perfumery, food, food supplements, plant-based therapy) and the general public. However, they are less well-known than essential oils obtained through the same extraction process. This article sets out the specific aspects of these natural extracts through several raw plant materials used, their extraction processes, and more specifically the latest ones, their chemical composition and their preservation issues. The principal hydrolates and hydrosols used are presented with some botanical information, physical and chemical data, principal components and main applications.
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Read the articleAUTHORS
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Xavier FERNANDEZ: Doctor of Science, HDR - University Professor, Université Nice-Sophia Antipolis - Director, Master 2 Professionnel chimie formulation, analyse et qualité (FOQUAL) - Nice Institute of Chemistry, University of Nice-Sophia Antipolis
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Alexandre CASALE: Design Engineer, Master 2 Professional Chemistry, Formulation, Analysis and Quality (FOQUAL) - Nice Sophia Antipolis University
INTRODUCTION
Essential oils, natural extracts obtained mainly by hydrodistillation or steam distillation, are now well-known consumer products. The same cannot be said of the aqueous fraction recovered. It's called floral water if a flower is distilled, or hydrolat if another part of the plant is used.
However, these extracts are not without interest, and their use has been growing steadily in recent years.
These aqueous solutions, containing low quantities of volatile organic compounds, are the ideal alternative to other natural extracts used in pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, cosmetics, perfumery and dietary supplements. In fact, their concentrations of active ingredients of interest are low enough not to have to worry about increasingly stringent regulatory constraints.
Nonetheless, there are still a number of drawbacks to their valorization, chiefly their conservation and the lack of reliable information on their biological properties.
Indeed, these aqueous solutions, which may contain traces of organic residues, are highly susceptible to bacterial and fungal contamination, which greatly limits their shelf life.
Still little studied by the scientific community, very little research has been published on their biological properties, apart from organoleptic ones. The information found in consumer publications is generally extracted from the properties of essential oils from the same plant, or from data based on empirical knowledge.
It therefore seems important to present an overview of what we know about these natural ingredients, in particular their extraction methods, focusing on the most modern ones, their chemical compositions, especially their differences from essential oils, the difficulties involved in preserving them, and their main applications.
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KEYWORDS
hydrosol | hydrolate | cosmetics | phytotherapy | hydrodistillation | steam distillation
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Floral waters and hydrolats
Bibliography
Events
Beyond Beauty Events – International trade fairs for beauty and wellness suppliers and brands http://www.beyondbeautyevents.com/bbe/fr/bbe_00_Home.asp
Beauty & Packaging Conference – Perfume and cosmetics packaging http://www.beautepackaging.com/1/fr_FR/page/217
...Standards and norms
- Validation et contrôle de routine pour la stérilisation par l'oxyde d'éthylène - EN 550 AFNOR - 1994
- Cosmetics – Microbiology – Assessment of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product (classification index: T 75-611) - NF T 75-611 - 07-07
- Cosmetics – Microbiology – Detection of Candida albicans (classification index: T 75-607) - NF EN ISO 18416 - 09-09s
- Cosmetics – Microbiology – General...
Regulations
Council Directive 76/768/EEC of July 27, 1976 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products (Cosmetics Directive).
Directory
Suppliers
Albert Vieille http://www.albertvieille.com/
AROMAZONE http://www.aroma-zone.com/
AURA Industrie http://www.alambic-inox.com/index.html
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