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ABSTRACT
After an overview of the scientific techniques employed to assess the anti-pollution activity of cosmetic ingredient, a synthesis of the main ingredients, either natural or synthetic, and some commercialized formulations available on the market will be produced.
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Read the articleAUTHORS
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Pauline BURGER: Doctor of Science - R&D Project Manager, NissActive, Espace Jacques-Louis Lions, Grasse
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Hortense PLAINFOSSE: Doctoral student in Science - Nice Chemistry Institute, Université Côte d'Azur - UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, Nice - Chemical engineer, Laboratoires JYTA, Carros - Scientific Director, NissActive, Espace Jacques-Louis Lions, Grasse
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Xavier FERNANDEZ: Doctor of Science, HDR - University Professor, Université Côte d'Azur - Director, Master 2 in Chemistry, Formulation, Analysis and Quality (FOQUAL) - Nice Chemistry Institute, Université Côte d'Azur - UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, Nice
INTRODUCTION
According to the World Health Organization, air pollution is the contamination of the outdoor or indoor environment by a chemical, biological or physical agent that alters the natural characteristics of the atmosphere. Studies have shown that our indoor environment is 2 to 5 times more polluted than the outdoor environment.
Air pollution is a global public health problem, and information campaigns and restrictions have raised consumer awareness of its deleterious impact on the environment, as well as its adverse effects on human health: exposure to pollutants can either aggravate existing health problems, or generate new ones. Forecasts indicate that almost 70% of the world's population will be living in urban areas by 2050. The cumulative stress and pollution associated with an increasingly urban lifestyle accentuate skin ageing.
The skin, a veritable barrier between the body and the external environment, is directly exposed to numerous environmental stress factors of both natural and man-made origin, as described in the article
In the years 2005-2010, this heightened consumer awareness of the effects of pollution on their skin led to the emergence of an "anti-pollution" sector in the Asia-Pacific cosmetics industry, which rapidly gained international momentum. More and more products are being launched to protect the skin from the harmful effects of atmospheric pollution (in the UK, sales of prestige anti-pollution cosmetics rose by 30% in the first half of 2017), despite the absence of standardized tests to attest to the real effectiveness of these products, or even to standardize them with the introduction of a universal anti-pollution index displayed on packaging, modelled on the sun protection factor or SPF.
A glossary at the end of the article lists definitions that are important or useful for understanding the text.
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KEYWORDS
atmospheric pollution | human skin | cosmetic formulation | oxidant stress
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Anti-pollution cosmetic active ingredients
Techniques for assessing an asset's anti-pollution performance
Bibliography
Websites
AMBIOTIS Resolve inflammation – contract research organization (CRO) specializing in the resolution mechanisms of the inflammatory response
Bioalternatives – CRO specialized in cellular and molecular pharmacology, offering a range of solutions dedicated to preclinical research and the development of drug...
Events
Beyond Beauty Events – International trade fairs for beauty and wellness suppliers and brands
http://beyondbeautyevents.com/bbe_00_Home.asp
Beauty and Packaging Conference – Perfume and cosmetics packaging
...Standards and norms
- Cosmetics – Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). Guidelines for good manufacturing practice NF EN. - ISO 22716 - 2008
- Détermination in vitro de la photoprotection UVA. Lignes directrices relatives aux bonnes pratiques de fabrication NF EN. - ISO 24443 - 2012
Regulations
Council Directive 76/768/EEC of July 27, 1976 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products (Cosmetics Directive).
Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 16/12/08 on classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures, amending and repealing Directives 67/548/EEC and 1999/45/EC, and amending Regulation (EC)...
Patents
DUCHE (D.), COTOVIO (J.) and CATROUX (P.). – L'Oréal – Use of ellagic acid as an anti-pollution cosmetic agent. WO2001087254A1.
MARTIN (R.), HILAIRE (P.), BELCOUR-CASTRO (B.), CATROUX (P.) and COTOVIO (J.). – L'Oréal – Use of a cell extract from at least one plant of the Pontederiaceae family as an anti-pollution agent. WO2001087319A1.
N'GUYEN (Q.-L.). – L'Oréal – Cosmetic or...
Directory
Suppliers of cosmetic active ingredients (non-exhaustive list)
AAK
AJINOMOTO NORTH AMERICA Inc.
ALBAN MULLER
...
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