Actives analyze and regulated substance in cosmetic

In a society where consumers are increasingly demanding about the products they consume, where information is circulating ever more rapidly, and where regulatory bodies are increasingly demanding about the quality and safety of consumer products, professionals are undoubtedly having to adapt their practices.

In this context, it is essential today to know how to dose a large number of the active ingredients and regulated substances contained in cosmetic products. This is necessary both to control the quality of raw materials and finished products, and to check their conformity.

For example, the determination of preservatives, whose use concentrations are strictly regulated, or the detection of controversial phthalates, are among the compounds that need to be extracted from cosmetic products and analyzed qualitatively or quantitatively. Determination of certain highly unstable active ingredients, such as vitamin C or retinol, are interesting examples.

However, the sheer number and complexity of cosmetic products on the market makes this task no easy task. The continuous introduction of new raw materials, and therefore new active ingredients, requires the constant development and validation of appropriate analytical methods.

What's more, the complexity of cosmetic matrices does not allow for simple analysis. Indeed, depending on the nature of the active ingredient(s), the composition of the finished product and the analytical method chosen, a more or less simple sample preparation must be envisaged. In addition, the often low concentrations of active ingredients and frequent matrix effects only add to the difficulties of assay.

It is therefore important not only to take stock of regulatory requirements in terms of dosage, but also to present the main analytical methods used with these samples, as well as the most recent developments.

As is customary in the industry, the concentrations specified in the text are mass concentrations, unless otherwise indicated.