Woven textile structures. Definition, properties and applications

Woven textile structures, more commonly known as "fabrics", can be divided into two categories (dobby fabric and jacquard fabric – due to their different warp yarn selection methods) and are divided into three main markets: clothing, furnishings and technical fabrics. A fabric is associated with the technical textiles market when its primary function is not aesthetic. Overall, the design and production processes for these fabrics can be radically different, depending on their use.

For the apparel market, fabric is generally designed to be worn by the user over a more or less short period of time, which limits its lifespan to between 6 months and 3 years. Apparel fabrics have to be designed quickly, respond to stylistic trends and require minimum production quantities sufficient for the production of garments in different sizes and distributed to different points of sale.

For the furnishings market, fabric is generally designed to dress individual interiors and collective living spaces, either horizontally (bed and household linen, fabrics for seats and sofas) or vertically (sheers, curtains, wall hangings). Upholstery fabrics are designed to last for varying lengths of time, depending on their use: 5 to 8 years on average for seat and sofa fabrics, and 2 to 5 years for terrycloth fabrics for towels and bath sheets, depending on their initial use and quality. The majority of upholstery fabrics are not worn and therefore do not require regular maintenance, with the exception of bed linen and towels in contact with people. As a result, upholstery fabrics are designed to meet both strong stylistic criteria and functional requirements specified in a set of specifications guaranteeing the durability of the woven product over time. Standards are used to certify the functionalities required by the furniture market. Depending on the surfaces to be covered, production quantities can vary (from 100 meters to several thousand meters) to meet market needs.

For the technical fabrics market, the predominant rationale is to identify the most suitable solutions that meet the various specification criteria. Depending on the performance required to qualify a fabric for technical use, levels of protection must be achieved to enable it to be marketed, which very often meets the criteria specified in ad hoc standards. The prototyping phase can last from a few weeks to several years, to identify the best solution for the combined requirements defined in the fabric specifications.

As a result, design approaches for a woven structure can be radically different depending on the type of fabric use and the standards associated with its market. The weaver (fabric manufacturer) can adapt his production tool to the logistical, economic, normative...