Overview
FrançaisABSTRACT
Slimming products constitute a somewhat separate category of cosmetics as the regulations concerning them are so complex. There are indeed words not to be pronounced (such as the word cellulite) and ingredients not to be incorporated (such as iodine) (a substance prohibited in cosmetics). Once these elements are taken into account, it is possible to formulate topical forms capable of penetrating the active ingredients to the target of action, the adipocyte - the hypodermis
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Read the articleAUTHORS
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Céline COUTEAU: Senior Lecturer - Galenics, Cosmetology, HDR Industrial Pharmacy and Cosmetology Laboratory, Faculty of Pharmacy, Nantes, France
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Laurence COIFFARD: University Professor - Galenics, Cosmetology HDR Laboratory of Industrial Pharmacy and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Nantes, France
INTRODUCTION
Cellulite is a pathological condition that must be distinguished from skin dimpling. The latter is linked to a significant increase in the size of hypodermal cells, or adipocytes, causing compression of adjacent vessels, resulting in tissue hypoxia. To improve skin condition, cosmetics known as slimming products can be used. These are emulsions or gels, some of which can be used in the shower. They are formulated with specific active ingredients. The most widely-used active ingredient has been used for many years, despite its low solubility in water and tendency to crystallize in the medium. Caffeine, a xanthine, acts by inhibiting phosphodiesterase A2, thereby increasing the level of AMP C (cyclic adenosine monophosphate), which activates an enzyme involved in lipolysis (i.e., the melting of adipocytes). This caffeine can be used pure or in the form of various plant extracts such as tea, cola nut, chocolate, maté or guarana. It can also be combined with veinotonic extracts such as horse chestnut or fragon. To understand how these cosmetics will be formulated in 2021, it is essential to understand the history of this recent category of cosmetics. By combining history and regulations, we can shed light on products that are seducing consumers, particularly as soon as the warm weather arrives. This is what this article proposes to explore.
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KEYWORDS
cellulite | caffeine | adipocyte
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