Article | REF: J2242 V1

Methodology for the development of a natural active cosmetic ingredient

Authors: Maria VIEYTEZ, Xavier FERNANDEZ, Véronique NARDELLO-RATAJ, Aline ROBERT-HAZOTTE

Publication date: June 10, 2024

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5. From plant to ingredient

5.1 Extraction optimization

Analysis, isolation and characterization techniques, combined with evaluation of efficacy and toxicity, enable us to identify the active compound(s), or the most active fraction of the plant extract. At this stage of development, it is possible to optimize the extraction protocol, with two major objectives in mind: respecting the principles of green chemistry while improving the overall extraction yield and active ingredient(s). Indeed, in a context where consumers prefer so-called "green" products, it is becoming essential to adopt processes that comply with the principles of green chemistry. At the same time, optimization can result in an extract richer in active molecules. Extraction conditions, such as choice of solvent, pre-treatments and activation...

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