Article | REF: J2215 V1

Extraction of bioactive cosmetic compounds

Authors: Sandrine PERINO, Caroline MAKERRI, Maryline ABERT-VIAN, Farid CHEMAT

Publication date: July 10, 2016

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2. The evolution of cosmetics towards eco-extraction

2.1 Definition of eco-extraction

Extraction processes have existed since Antiquity. Indeed, perfumed oils obtained by maceration were once used to soak mummification strips. Solid-liquid extraction involves recovering compounds of interest from a solid matrix in a solvent. Today, this technique is widely used in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food industries to obtain active molecules of plant origin, such as antioxidants, alkaloids and preservatives. However, although the extraction of compounds is considered "clean" compared to their synthesis, extraction techniques are very energy-intensive. Indeed, they often require 70% of the investment and consume 50% of the energy in industrial processes across all sectors.

Eco-extraction...

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The evolution of cosmetics towards eco-extraction