Overview
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ABSTRACT
Aromatherapy industry market proves to be dynamic through the growing interest for natural solutions in health and well-being. However, aromatherapy products development can be complex. Since there is no single regulatory framework for products used in aromatherapy, a regulatory and marketing strategy needs to be started most early in design product phase. This article, with concrete examples, is a practical approach of aromatherapy products development dealing with formulation, ingredient and claims problematics, to determine the best regulatory strategy in order to be an industry’s innovation driver and to meet the future challenge of aromatherapy.
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Mathieu BOUARFA: Master of Business Engineering in Bioproducts - Development Manager in the health, beauty and well-being industry - Consultant, Paris, France
INTRODUCTION
Aromatherapy, the use of essential oils for medicinal, preventive and comfort purposes, is at the forefront of the natural medicine segment, a dynamic market driven by numerous new products and innovations. In addition to high-performance innovations in promising therapeutic, wellness and cosmetic segments, brands have invested heavily in communications to stimulate this market. The craze for natural medicines alone does not explain the breakthrough of aromatherapy. In fact, essential oils are becoming increasingly popular as complements to, and even alternatives to, synthetic medicines. The global market for essential oils is experiencing significant growth, driven by their increasing use in aromatherapy. According to Openhealth, sales of the aromatherapy market in France were estimated at 349 million euros in 2017, with a clear advantage for pharmaceuticals.
The development and formulation of an aromatherapy product follows classic stages, with specific features to be taken into account at the design stage. In addition, the claims made in the marketing strategy determine the regulatory status of the future product, which has important consequences for its composition, as well as for the key components of product development: cost, lead time and quality. The pre-conception phase must draw on marketing, scientific and regulatory knowledge, in order to put in place a real strategy for the development and marketing of the future product. When it comes to regulations on product status, the boundaries are sometimes blurred. Given that aromatherapy is not governed by any specific regulations, there are still inconsistencies between the applicable regulations and the traditional use to which it may be put. What's more, essential oils contain substances of proven efficacy, but which are also potentially toxic, so they need to be properly characterized and used judiciously. All these issues complicate the development and marketing of aromatherapy products.
This article follows on from the first
The aim of this article is to illustrate the implementation of a genuine development strategy upstream of the design of an aromatherapy product. To this end, the first part looks at the different regulatory statuses that may apply to them within the European Union. Finally, the second part, through case studies, proposes a method for companies to optimize and secure their product development and regulatory...
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KEYWORDS
pharmaceutical | natural medecine | essential oil | plant | borderline product
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Bibliography
- (1) - AFNOR - Quelle est la différence entre normalisation et règlementation ?. - https://normalisation.afnor.org .
- (2) - Pharmacopée européenne - Huiles essentielles. -...
Website
French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products
LNE – Laboratoire nationale de métrologie et d'essais – NF marking
DGCCRF, General Directorate for Competition, Consumer...
Events
Perfumes and cosmetics congress – Regulatory issues, takes place every year in Chartres.
http://www.congres-parfumscosmetiques.com/fr
Cosmetagora tradeshow, held every year in Paris
...
Standards and norms
- Raw materials of natural origin – Vocabulary, 2nd edition. - ISO 9235 :2013 - 2013
- Huiles essentielles-nomenclature, 3e édition. - ISO 4720 :2009 -
Regulations
Regulation (EU) 2018/848 of the European Parliament and of the Council of May 30, 2018 on organic production and labelling of organic products, and repealing Council Regulation (EC) No 834/2007, OJ L 150, 14.6.2018, p. 1-92.
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of November 30, 2009 on cosmetic products, OJ L 342, 22.12.2009, p. 59-209.
...
Patents
CN108498835A Portable ultrasonic aromatherapy device, 2018
WO2018122034A1, Giner Montserrat Riera, ALONSO Joaquim LLORENTE, URIBE Jorge, Alejandro MARTÍNEZ, Insect repellent, 2016
WO2018127889A2, QUEZADA Nadia Angelica ORTIZ, ALVAREZ Sandra Isabel GUERRA, Mayra Victoria RAMOS, HAJEE Muhammad Hamzah HAJI, Massage mask for migraine relief, 2018
US6280751B1,...
Directory
Manufacturers – Suppliers – Distributors
Directory of cosmetics professionals
http://www.cosmetic-valley.com
Organizations – Federations – Associations
Synadiet – Syndicat National des Compléments Alimentaires
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